Classic. American. Cool.

Classic. American. Cool.
Tommy Hilfiger launches a history-meets-present global flagship design on Fifth Avenue

By Alison Embrey Medina, Executive Editor
November 24, 2009

Callison/Chris Eden

When a brand like Tommy Hilfiger opts to open its largest store to date on one of the world’s most prominent shopping thoroughfares—it does it right. The New York-based specialty apparel retailer opened shop in the former Fortunoff location at 681 Fifth Avenue in September, in a 22,000-sq.-ft. space built on the company’s inherent brand qualities: Classic. American. Cool.

The design concept was developed by the Tommy Hilfiger in-house creative team in partnership with Seattle-based Callison. The store imparts a mix of modern and traditional with respect to the original building’s architectural heritage—a classically designed 20th century McKim, Mead and White-designed structure. The resulting Neoclassic façade is made of Indiana limestone with oil-rubbed bronze metal finishes, and large expanses of glass, so that the interior is always exposed.

“They wanted ‘Classic American Cool’ incorporated in every way possible,” says Inga Kruliene, principal out of Callison’s New York office. “‘Classic’ and ‘cool’ kind of contradict and create some tension, and that’s what we wanted to do with the architecture of the building and the store itself. Create this interesting tension between classic, cool and American—and not too serious.”

Inside, the design team took the history of the Tommy Hilfiger brand into consideration, while bringing in some contemporary finishes for a fresh-faced appeal. Walking through the store’s threshold, customers are greeted with a three-story-high entry area featuring dry-stacked stone on one side and Indiana limestone block with walnut display niches on the other. “We decided that keeping the open entry area was very important to us, just for the mere fact that from the outside with the open glass façade, you were getting more than just a one-floor experience,” says Trent Wisehart, senior vice president creative services, Tommy Hilfiger. “We cut back the mezzanine and the women’s floor slightly so you would get that monumental effect when you come in the front door.”

Staircases have been a thing of beauty in many Fifth Avenue prototypes this year—and the Tommy Flagship is no exception. In the center of the main floor is a modern, digitally designed fiberglass staircase swooping through the upper four levels, making ascending a treat, rather than a chore. A glass railing winds with the sculpted stair, with Brazilian cherry treads underfoot paired with color-changing LEDs. “We were trying to control the visual perception, to take the eye up, as well as down,” explains Steve Segure, principal out of Callison’s New York office. “We wanted to lead people through the space, and give them pause points.”

In order to house all of Tommy’s brands seamlessly within the space, the materials palette changes somewhat as the customer travels through the store, tied together through the abundant use of found pieces and vintage visuals. “We had to create a palette whereby everything would come together seamlessly,” Segure says. “They have different brands that are all part of the overall, but separate.”

At street level, the men’s sportswear floor features a classic palette of walnut millwork, dark, high-gloss Brazilian cherry floors, leather furnishings and ivory drapes that channel an old men’s club. The second floor, home to men’s tailored and accessories, features a similar aesthetic, including a ’30s-era haberdashery cabinet. On the women’s sportswear third floor, a Brazilian cherry herringbone floor pairs with hand-painted wallpaper and ’60s Venini chandeliers for a softer feminine appeal. The women’s runway fourth floor features more refined finishes with a vintage touch, including a black piano lacquered floor with over-dyed patchwork Persian rugs. The basement level, which houses Tommy denim, is a bit more loungey, with colored LEDs in the steel stair treads and a hip, downtown feel.

Unexpected visuals in the store play up various traits of classic Americana infused with a sense of playful quirkiness. While companies like Neiman Marcus might be known for housing art installations in its stores, Tommy Hilfiger might be somewhat under the radar in this realm—but not for long. “As a company, we decided that the whole idea of doing art installations as visual pieces inside of stores adds another dimension to the shopping experience and makes it more interesting,” Wisehart explains. “We do own other art installations that will switch in and out of the space, probably every six to eight months. Found pieces will evolve seasonally, so that when you come in you might get a different feel in summer than you would in fall. Things will always evolve and change.”

For the opening, a monumental Tommy “flag” installation bearing iconic American found objects (think a ’50s-era TV, vintage Cadillac fender, cowboy boots and a sports team foam finger) in red, white and blue hangs on the wall alongside the main staircase. In the men’s area, tree stumps painted pink have Native American arrowheads sticking out of them, as well as multicolored bust forms of past U.S. presidents. In the women’s sportswear area, 50 China plates representing each of the 50 states adorn the walls—and all 50 states are presented again in the basement level with each U.S. state license plate. Vinyl Butterflies, an art installation by Paul Villinski that features butterflies made out of vinyl records, is currently exhibited on the “casual yet refined” women’s fourth floor.

Also on the fourth floor is a surprising treat—a 275-sq.-ft. outdoor balcony area overlooking Fifth Avenue. “We thought it was really an interesting moment for the customer to have in a retail experience,” Wisehart explains. “On days where we can, we leave the doors open so customers know they can cross that threshold and take a look at the outside onto Fifth Avenue.”

Through found pieces, architectural elements, vintage stylings and updated materials, Tommy Hilfiger has found a way to tie its various collections into one fluid space that oozes classic Americana. The New York-based retailer finally has a global flagship in its own backyard on Fifth Avenue. As Wisehart puts it: “It’s a coming home for the brand.”

Click here to view a floor-by-floor video tour of the new Tommy Hilfiger flagship, as well as an interview with Trent Wisehart, senior vice president of creative services for the New York-based company.